ESG in Fashion: True Transformation or Mere Superficiality?
ESG, standing for Environmental, Social, and Governance, has been widely discussed as an essential part of responsible corporate practices.
The complexity of sustainability makes it a widely debated topic in the fashion industry. The discussion is not limited to a simple evaluation of practices and products but requires a deep analysis of the layers involved in the fashion system. Are we really seeing genuine efforts, or just a veneer of actions?
First, it is important to understand that there is no sustainable fashion in the absolute sense; that is, all fashion production and consumption involve some environmental impact. Even though there are efforts to minimize these effects through more conscious practices and cleaner technologies, there will always be some negative consequences for the environment.
Although practices such as upcycling, which involves reusing existing pieces, and making clothes from recycled fabrics can be somehow considered sustainable, the production of new fabrics, even those that are organic or biodegradable, still carries significant challenges.
Sustainability goes beyond the environmental aspect—It involves social and economic factors. A very clear example is: having an organic cotton piece is not enough if the working conditions are not fair and safe.
True sustainability must encompass the entire life cycle of the product and the working conditions of those involved in the production chain.
The UN’s Agenda 2030 sets ambitious goals for sustainability, including the fashion industry. However, many experts believe it will be impossible to meet all these objectives within the established timeframe.
According to the “The State of Fashion 2021” report by McKinsey & Company, although many fashion brands are adopting more sustainable practices, the speed and scale of these changes are not sufficient to meet the global goals by 2030. And that was already three years ago. Have you seen such a shift in the market that would be significant enough to match the goals? We haven’t.
This report highlights that the challenges include systemic changes needed in the processes through which we design, produce, and consume products. Moreover, major brands, consumers, and regulators must all commit more deeply to enable a true transformation in the fashion industry.
Today, the fashion industry is, above all, convenient. Being sustainable has become a minimum requirement for companies to stay competitive. However, this sustainability is often simplified and superficial— the so called greenwashing.
Clear examples involve H&M and Zara, which are consistently criticized for their practices. H&M, for instance, have a new “conscious” and sustainable discourse, where some pieces are made with at least “50% sustainable materials.” Still, it faces accusations of generating huge amounts of textile waste and maintaining questionable working conditions.
Similarly, Zara, which promotes itself as moving towards a circular economy model and 100% renewable energy, is still criticized. It faces scrutiny for its lack of transparency and the high volume of production that contradicts its sustainability claims.
Can we really trust these initiatives, or are they merely strategies to enhance image while deeper issues of sustainability and ethics remain unresolved? True sustainability is much richer and more complex, requiring technical innovations and profound solutions.
Current figures show a challenging scenario. Especially in the fashion sector, it seems that many Agenda 2030 goals are far from achievement.
It is important to redefine what we consider sustainable. Instead of seeking “sustainable fashion,” why not pursue “conscious fashion”? At lest for now, it’s a more realistic path. In other words, this means adopting practices that minimize environmental impact and promote social justice, while also being transparent about the company’s production process.
Conscious fashion seeks balance and continuous improvement, recognizing that absolute sustainability is perhaps an unattainable ideal, but we must strive to achieve as much as possible.
To sum up, nowadays, can we say that fashion takes sustainability seriously? No, unfortunatly not.
Many initiatives are powerful but do not address the root of the problems. To move forward, we need a deeper understanding and more courageous actions that encompass all layers of sustainability. Therefore, investing in technological innovations and solutions that truly make a difference. Only then can we move towards a more conscious and responsible future in fashion.
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